| | | THE BIG SIT - LA PLAYA HOTEL 11.17.2024 |
| Where: La Playa Hotel
Social: @laplayaca
Location: Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
What: Once a historic artist’s home, La Playa has been transformed into a boutique hotel with charm in one of California’s most prestigious neighborhoods, just literal steps away from the pristine white sands of the Pacific coast.
History: Built in 1905 by an artist as a gift to his wife—a member of the Ghirardelli family—La Playa Hotel has reigned for over a century as the “Grande Dame of Carmel.”
"Carmel-by-the-Sea is the kind of community where poets (and Clint Eastwood) have served as mayor. Here, jade hunting, abalone bashing, and spontaneous poetry readings are as common as they are celebrated. Carmel is a haven for painters, politicians, musicians, philosophers, and writers—an eclectic, vibrant blend of talent and stories. And Bud’s Bar is an homage to its legends."
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| Ahhhhhh.
That's what it felt like as we made our way down quiet 8th Avenue and turned into our hotel. Driving up to La Playa felt like stepping back in time. Carmel-by-the-Sea has its own vibe—it’s a place that attracts a certain type of crowd with certain proclivities. This hotel dropped the pomp, and delivered a serene, intimate aesthetic. The brick walkway arrival led to double wood doors that open to reveal an atmosphere both soothing and historic. The lights are low, fireplaces crackle, and cozy sofas are spread among vignettes of stained glass, quiet nooks, palm trees, and American West details. I felt transported.
"Who created this magic?"
The answer: Post Company (design), Marc + Rose (hotelier).
As you step through the foyer, welcomed by the lovely staff, peer to the right and you are greeted by the staircase. THE staircase phew. Mosaic tiles, stained glass, candles, and textured stucco create a soft, Spanish ascent—a perfect blend of rustic and refined. We made our way up with the bellman.
Our room was another world. Spacious, and dialed in to the early 1900s, with vintage furnishings and a rotary phone. Little details—recipes, a curated itinerary—showed someone understood the art of hospitality. The jewel in the crown was the view. Just three stories up, you felt you were on top of the world, overlooking a lush courtyard, pool, with the perfect dusk ocean lit by an orange setting sun.
We lingered, just staring, soaking it in.
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| | | Favorite Spot: Bud’s Bar
Bud's is a low-lit, historic bar at lobby level, with live music. Picture the perfect older gentleman strumming the Beatles, and John Mayer in a Neil Young way (it was very good)—it’s mellow, soft, and fits the place like a glove. Bud’s has history, too. In 1968, Howard “Bud” Allen brought the first full-time bar to La Playa. Today, a 10-minute Happy Hour commemorates that legacy with drinks for just a dime.
Very Close Second: The complimentary breakfast. I know, it sounds mid, but this breakfast spread was top top. An outdoor terrace with a fireplace and ocean views, paired with over the top spread. Fresh California produce, espresso, thoughtful breakfast items like a salon lox tartine and perfectly arranged, personal sized chia puddings*.
*My partner found her happy spot here, and so did I.
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| | | | Scene: A blend of modernized charm and historic character—a cozy, coastal feel, luxurious but unpretentious.
Longevity of Stay: Ideal for 3-5 days. You could pop into Bud’s for a drink, but trust me, you’ll want to linger at La Playa for a long weekend, if not more.
What We Drank: - 2007 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello – A rich Cabernet Sauvignon with blackberry, black cherry, spice, cedar, and graphite notes.
- 2018 Dr. Loosen Estate Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany
- 2021 "Lancelot" Pinot Noir, Pisoni Vineyard – "Incredible minerality with bright red fruits, white flowers, crushed stone, and violet aromas. Full-bodied, structured, with a flawless finish. Best enjoyed after aging a few years."
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| | What You’ll Hear: Neil Young
What’s Nearby: Walk to charming shops and galleries, or see the storybook cottages designed by Hugh Comstock. Take a drive to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve or Big Sur’s iconic Bixby Creek Bridge, with a stop at Nepenthe for majestic views and wine.
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